Mexican braising and Levantine spice next to glazed salmon, black rice and a cold melon salad
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Chef's Notes
Two of these dishes take almost all of the time. The Mexican style shredded beef is a proper braise, three hours covered at 300°F with chiles and onion, until a fork will pull it into strands without any pressure at all. The hasselback garlic rosemary potatoes are the other one: each potato sliced most of the way through against a wooden spoon so the knife cannot go all the way, then roasted twice, once covered to cook through and once uncovered so the fans separate and crisp.
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Cantaloupe at the market right now is sweet enough that it needs nothing but lemon, mint and salt, and the cucumber gets shaved into ribbons on a peeler so it picks up the vinaigrette instead of sitting in it. The green beans with cherry tomatoes, Kalamata olives and shaved Asiago come from the same thinking, tomatoes in season being worth more than any amount of technique. Both go out undressed.
The tofu Bolognese protein pasta exists because one night a week here is vegetarian, and a bowl of plain vegetables does not hold anyone over. Tofu is crumbled and browned hard before the tomato goes in, which is what gives it the texture of a classic meat ragu rather than something soft and beige. It sits on a higher-protein pasta, so the plate stands up next to the zaatar chicken thighs the rest of the week. This dish reheats better than any other on the list.
Reheating notes: The garlic salmon bites want 8 minutes at 375°F, covered, and the bang bang sauce added cold afterwards, since heating it splits it. Scallions black rice comes back best with a tablespoon of water stirred through and 90 seconds in the microwave rather than an oven. The shredded beef is happiest reheated in a pan with a splash of its own liquid, and the hasselback potatoes need 10 minutes at 425°F uncovered to get their edges back.
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