Levantine spices meet a French gratin in a globally inspired menu, complete with white peaches, miso halibut, and Tuscan-style meatballs
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Chef's Notes
Zaatar is not one spice, and the blend is what makes those drumsticks taste the way they do. Mine runs heavy on sumac and sesame with only a little thyme, and it goes under the skin as well as over it so the flavour is not just a surface coat. The traditional Lebanese approach is to let the chicken sit overnight in olive oil and lemon, which is what happened here. Tzatziki stays on the side, because yoghurt on hot chicken splits.
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The French gratin is the slowest thing on this list and the least forgiving. Potato and zucchini are sliced thin, layered with gruyere and baked covered for fifty minutes before the lid comes off to brown, or the zucchini water thins the whole tray. The saucy shredded chicken goes the other way, poached whole and pulled by hand so the strands stay long, then returned to a sauce that reduced without them. That is the entire technique.
White peaches are the reason that salad exists, and their season is short. They are sweeter and less acidic than yellow peaches, which is why they can sit against arugula and mozzarella with no sugar in the dressing at all. The balsamic travels separately, since peaches weep the moment they are dressed. Cucumber is in there for water and crunch, nothing more.
Reheating, and the gratin is the one to plan around. Give it 25 minutes at 350°F covered, then five uncovered, because a microwave turns the gruyere to oil. Zaatar drumsticks want 12 minutes at 400°F uncovered, the tuscan beef meatballs 10 minutes at 325°F in their tomato basil sauce, and the miso glazed halibut only 6 minutes at 300°F. Crispy baked zucchini sticks will not come back in anything but an air fryer, so eat those first, and since the delivery reaches Sugar Land cold, all of that heat happens in your oven rather than mine.
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