Italian and Mediterranean plates with stuffed chicken, farro and summer stone fruit
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Chef's Notes
A roulade lives or dies on how tightly it is rolled, and the cheese and broccoli filling has to go in cold or it runs straight out the ends. I sear the outside first to glue the seam shut, finish the chicken breast in the oven, then rest it before any knife touches it. The Saltimboka asks for the opposite discipline, with the sage and prosciutto pinned to the outside and the pan doing everything in about six minutes.
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Plums are good right now and they do not need help, so that salad is plum, romaine, cucumber and basil with a peach vinaigrette shaken up in a jar. The dressing stays separate because romaine collapses within a day of getting wet. Sourcing is most of the work on something that plain, and if the market plums are hard I would rather change the fruit than cook it.
Saltimboka means jumps in the mouth, and the traditional Roman version is veal, but chicken breast carries the sage and prosciutto just as well and holds up far better across a week. This dish keeps coming back onto my menus because it needs three ingredients and no sauce at all. The maple bacon date Brussel sprouts went into the same oven at the same temperature, which is the only reason both fit into one afternoon.
The cornflake crust on the chicken tenders is the fragile thing in this delivery, so give it twelve minutes at 400°F on a rack, uncovered, and keep it out of the microwave. Pesto burrata gnocchi goes the other way, three minutes in a hot dry pan, because an oven dries the burrata to chalk. Everything else, cumin bell peppers and chickpeas included, wants ten minutes at 375°F.
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